Bobby D
1 week ago
that motor never took 5w30. The dealership when new shipped them with 10w30 and most racers ran 10-40.
Also the "chip" on the key, is not called "a chip on the key" that's the GM "VATS". (Vehicle anti theft system) the chip is just a resistor, I won't post the values but you can easily google the entire list of values for that key, order a resistor online with the correct value, do a little solder job under the dash and get a plain cut key. The VATS system is a tricky beast, if the right resistance is not detected the car will crank, and it will fire for a moment then shut down, but that's only because the fuel pump always primes, VATS prevents the fuel pump from being on in the run condition. I have had a LOT of customers over the years bring in VATS vehicles on tow trucks from other shops because techs really didn't understand how it worked and could not properly diagnose it.
If that is a factory manual 1LE then the motor is a LB9. If it was shipped auto then it could be either LB9 or L98. the VIN can be decoded to tell you the motor type. if it decodes to an L03 it was not a 1LE.
I myself had an 89 1LE, I loved that car, and it ended up saving my life. I got rear ended on the freeway at 60mph by someone trying to get me to race them, I was heading to work and not having it, so he attempted a fly by and traffic came to a halt. He tried to get in behind me and nailed me dead on in the drivers rear quarter panel and 1 spun 7 times before jumping the divider and going into oncoming traffic. The car was toast. Hood was gone, rear window was gone, all 4 rims were shattered, seat was broken, steering wheel was folded like a taco. I didn't have a scratch on me. Not even a seat belt bruise. Then when I jumped out of the window, because the door was folded, I rolled my ankle LOL!.
Mine while built to be a race car, was delivered to a guy in texas and daily driven, until he passed away, then his daughter drove it until the VATS resistor key failed and it wouldn't stay running. I bought the car in the early 2000's for $800.00 then I threw almost $4k into it the first month I owned it. I had the L98 350 CID motor in mine backed by a 4L60. (can't wait for the 700R4 know it alls to jump in and tell me I had one....., but I had a 30 spline input and a pinned flare with o-ring so no it was not a 700R4, and no I'm not confusing it with a 4L60-E, that's a totally different beast.)
That tuned port setup makes AMAZING torque from off idle up to about 4kRPM then it falls on it's face. If you want to wake that motor up, look into the holley stealth ram intake for it. Lose some bottom end but make up for it with wild gains around 5k RPM.
Also ditch the stock ECU. I don't think anyone still has the ability to burn chips for that antique. That motor is batch fire fuel injection, despite what many will try and tell you. Just look at the wiring diagram, there is not 8 injector drivers
You can convert it pretty easily to SFI with standalone ECU and some new wires.
I didn't see a center console so there is no way to verify the RPO codes and you CANNOT decode the vin to find out if it was a 1LE or not, you must have the RPO codes, unless GM can get you a copy of the label based on the VIN.
being a 1LE owner almost 20 years ago felt like being a member of a secret society, very very few people knew what one was, until the new camaro came out with the 1LE package. When you try telling someone you owned a 1989 1LE that was just one of only 111 ever made, compared to the thousands they made now, they look at you in complete disbelief.
Still one of the best handling cars I EVER owned, and I have owned more than most people who say they have owned a lot..... Hope it serves you well... if it is a true 1LE you need to hunt down the RPO label, and go road course racing with it.