Caprice engine swap?

[kevm14]

Good article, but it basically picks up and focuses on life after the full frame cars.
http://www.curbsideclassic.com/automoti ... rspective/

[kevm14]

81 in Finland.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=L91EbWg0x-E

There are updates here. Digital climate control. Heated mirrors, too. And with the fuel injection, a trip computer.

[kevm14]

Apparently I may have been onto something with my Roger Smith post. 82-89 Fleetwood used the 7.5" axle. Man that is cheap of them. So I can turbo this one

[kevm14]

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/rw ... twood.html

I've been looking for an all-original Calif. 76-79 Seville for a long time and have just about given up. Along the way I've taken a huge liking to the RWD B/C-body cars. Since they were built until later model years than the RWD Seville I figure I might have better luck finding a great one.

What a coincidence. I was drawn to this era by the Seville originally.

I am feeling good about the 77-79 once again.

I know my granddad's 78 SDV had a factory lacquer paint job, because I remember when it cracked (looked good though). When did Cadillac stop using lacquer on the Broughams?

PS -- Is it just me or do these old Sevilles and Broughams look best in that dark brown metallic or light yellow color?

Lacquer paint disappeared in 1982 IIRC, when manufacturers switched to water-based basecoat-clearcoat paint jobs to satisfy enviromental regs. The early ones were really bad, and the clear died quickly and early. They also lacked the mirror-like finish of the old lacquers.

I guess that means lacquer paint. That is cool. Real old school. In fact, that was the end of lacquer paint basically, so the process was clearly well understood.

I love the last comment though. This is not the first time I've heard people say they love the Western Saddle. I hope it looks good in person. In pictures, it just looks like an old brown car...

[kevm14]

So many interesting variations (some really shitty).

Olds 307 was 86-90. L05 Chev (350) was optional 90-93. L03 Chev standard 91/2. LT1 350 standard 94-96. Fuel injection was optional 77-80, standard in 81 on the 368. Back to carbs for all the 307 Olds. TBI injection 90-93 on the Chev motors. MPFI on the LT1s.

Big blocks 425/368 got TH400, all Olds, Ht4100s and V6 got TH200-4R, Chev motors got TH700R4, later named 4L60, LT1s got 4L60E. 77-81 got the big heavy duty rear end, 82-up got the weak 7.5" GM rear, changing to the strong GM 8.5" rear for 350 cars in 90.

ABS arrived in the 90s.

Base/clear paint didn't start until 91.

81 8-6-4 368 is a fine engine.

If you want a "real" cadillac with a reliable engine, go 77-81. If you want more modern engine management, and a lot more power, 94-96 is the choice. For decent power, reliability, and older styling, go Chev engine 90-92 (note that means 350 in the 90, not the 307 Olds base model). Just my opinions, of course.

You can't go wrong asking the group. People around here know just about everything there is to know about these cars. Good, bad, and ugly. A bunch of us have experience with more than one type. I own, or have owned: 8-6-4 368, HT4100, Olds 307, Chev L05 350 TBI, Chev LT1. Haven't had a 425, though...

Good luck with the search, and keep us posted!

Jason.

I am wondering if the 77-81 got something like a 12-bolt. That really would be one hell of a solid powertrain, between the 425, TH400 and big axle. More research!

[kevm14]

I remember the sounds of the 78 SDV 425 vividly, especially during the cold start idle. At both the engine and exhaust it sounded so "Cadillac". On the road there was that seamless torque and tranquility. The starter motor sounded great too, if any of you know what I mean.

These are definitely my people.

[kevm14]

1978 grill

classic-cadillac-1978-fleetwood-brougham-black-near-mint-cond-low-miles-28k-1.jpg

classic-cadillac-1978-fleetwood-brougham-black-near-mint-cond-low-miles-28k-3.jpg

1979 grill

1979-cadillac-fleetwood-brougham-original-great-shape-runs-well-americanlisted_30346273.jpg

38171690001_large.jpg

79 Fleetwood 3773877199_64c2f04cfa_z.jpg

I posted these because I thought I was going to like the 79 better, with the higher extension at the top of the grill. But now I think I am fine with the 78. There are plenty of other options anyway.

[kevm14]

From the '94 Guinness Book of Records: The highest record mileage for an automobile with the original gasoline motor without an overhaul is 577,363 miles to 5 Jan 1993 by Don Champion's 1979 Cadillac Sedan de Ville

Which is a 425 of course. I assume the record has been broken post-1993.

[kevm14]

Looking a little into engine oils. I may want to run an HDEO for the non-roller lifters. Like Delo 400 10W-30 or something like that.

[kevm14]

LOL

I've owned a few 425 cars and have driven them Hundreds of Thousands of miles. Those things are bullet proof.

Change the oil if you must every 8,000 -10,000 miles (or when it starts sounding funny). Every other oil change put a quart of transmission fluid in the crank case two days before you change the oil and drive the crap out of it for those 2 days (don't leave that trans fluid in there more than 2 days!). The trans fluid will keep the lifters from sticking. If your motor is young and full of life 10w 40, if not 20w 50. Don't piss away your hard earned $ on expensive synthetic product in a motor that doesn't need it. I used those cars for towing boats through the desert for river runs, foot on floor up long steep grades towing in 117 degrees, those damn 425's just wouldn't die. I have to run synthetic in one of my cars and that $80 at Jiffy lube just pisses me off.

2 1977 SDVs (I used one of these for towing for 290,000 miles and never even opened a valve cover)
2 1978 SDVs
1 1979 SDV (I purchased this one with a bad motor, raided parts for the 1980 and ran her in a Demo Derby)
1 1980 SDV, so it wasn't a 425, same block.

I say synthetic is Snake Oil when it comes to the 425. Go buy some Castrol and a several cases of beer, you'll have more fun that way.

By the time you kill a 425 the rest of the car is falling apart.

So get some beer, some clear silicone to keep your window switch panels glued in place, clean those copper contacts on the big plug on the back of the climate control every time you change the oil, get a half a dozen of the plastic clip for the head light adjusters, keep a jar of vaseline in the glove box to control squeaks, for the love of God upgrade the AC relay and drive that bad boy!

AC relay, eh?