Started around 10am yesterday. By 2pm the system was running. Hardest part was pulling the lines out of the wall while the orange expanding foam held everything in place. Second hardest thing is dealing with the line set connections while at the top of a ladder.
But as it goes with these jobs, a test run is not the end of the job. You have to finish the install itself meaning steps like:
- Reapply orange fire block foam to wall cavity
- Silicone caulk and replace the top cover for the line set where it comes out of the wall
- Apply the UV tape stuff to the line set, at least to the areas that may end up exposed. I covered a lot more area just for good measure.
- Attach the condensate line and cut to length
- Double insulate the various sections of line set (my preference)
- Apply the tar/asphalt sound deadening to upper line set connections
- Finish/tidy up the upper line set connections (more insulation/tape)
- Snap on and screw down the line set covers
- Coil the excess power/signal cable. This gen 4 one is upgraded and armored which is nice.
- Throw away a ton of garbage littered around the work area. Pick up tools. Gather up unused installation items and organize.
I was done with all of the above by 5pm. I would say doing a replacement system was probably half the work/time of a brand new system that's never been installed before. Specifically, cutting out the time for:
- Hanging the inside unit mounting bracket (same for my old gen 3 and new gen 4)
- Locating and drilling hole, installing PVC conduit passthrough
- Locating/attaching line set covers to outside of house
- Locating/hanging condenser bracketry
Seriously, that stuff doubles the time.
Anyway, new system is working great. The gas sniffer had some alarms where the ends of the line set attach to the inside unit and the condenser but I couldn't really figure out if they were false or not. It did pass the soapy water bubble test.
Side note: I JUST threw away the first replacement condenser and when I went to "evacuate" the gas, there was none. That was not the case with my old gen 3 condenser. Not sure what to think about that.
Install ductless mini-split
Re: Install ductless mini-split
Might be time to ditch the last condenser (witting in front of my garage) as I haven't needed anything from it. This new single zone has been working for 16 months with no issues.
Re: Install ductless mini-split
I may make the push to install my final dual zone system addressing master bed and living room HVAC needs. I see Mr Cool now has a 5th gen system with R454B. But IWAE still seems to carry the 4th gen R410a 18k system with 9k + 12k heads. This is about the same price as it was in 2023, so that's something. The 5th gen also now offers a 6k head but I think 9k is more appropriate for my master bedroom. I also didn't see an option like they offer on the 4th gen. I only saw a 27k condenser option which runs the price up substantially to like $4k. The 4th gen system with 18k outside unit was more like $2800 which is a significant savings. Given all my hand wringing over sizing (previously documented) this would seem to solve my decision paralysis.
Researching line set cover options that include vertical elbows to handle my Garrison-style bump out situation for the lines that would run down from my master bedroom.
Here are some options from Rectorseal:
https://rectorseal.com/cg-4-5-internal-90-ell-white/
https://rectorseal.com/cg-4-5-external-90-ell-white/
https://rectorseal.bynder.com/m/3e3b9c4 ... -Flyer.pdf
I may be able to fashion something for these to hide the vertical turns. Only problem is these are seemingly impossible to order online without a contractor account at a distributor. So maybe I'll try FW Webb and see what they can do for me.
Researching line set cover options that include vertical elbows to handle my Garrison-style bump out situation for the lines that would run down from my master bedroom.
Here are some options from Rectorseal:
https://rectorseal.com/cg-4-5-internal-90-ell-white/
https://rectorseal.com/cg-4-5-external-90-ell-white/
https://rectorseal.bynder.com/m/3e3b9c4 ... -Flyer.pdf
I may be able to fashion something for these to hide the vertical turns. Only problem is these are seemingly impossible to order online without a contractor account at a distributor. So maybe I'll try FW Webb and see what they can do for me.
Re: Install ductless mini-split
FW Webb not only carries Rectorseal Cover Guard but they had the inside and outside vertical elbows in stock, for less than what I am seeing on eBay.
But upon further reflection it would make more sense just to do all Rectorseal Cover Guard so I can use their wider range of parts.
Procurement list:
IWAE
https://iwae.com/shop/18k-btu-21-seer-m ... 22046.html
They seem to have a 10% coupon as well. $2898 listed on the website for the default kit options. 21 SEER2.
18k outside unit
9k + 12k inside unit
Need one 16' and one 25' line set. They should be able to substitute. 16' out of stock....and isn't going to be in stock. Damn.
Disconnect box
6' whip
5th gen with R454B is not in stock in this size but the equivalent would be $3267. 23.9 SEER2. However, this 18k is out of stock and she thought "maybe by June." Double damn. Fun fact: the new gen 5 units are available with a smaller 6k head and the 18k is now a 3 zone. That is a great move for houses with smaller bedrooms.
[ ] That moves us onto a 5th gen 27k outside + 9k inside + 18k inside. 23 SEER2. Price with 25' + 16' $4072 + whip and box = $4200. 10% discount brings that down to $3785 and then back up to $4048 with tax. 25A breaker and 10/2 is sufficient (oddly the same as the 18k). Just need to confirm that I can put the hole in the wall in a different location to clear my porch light. If I can put the hole all the way to the left of the lower bracket ear and A) the lines will still reach far enough out of the hole and B) the resulting bend is ok then I may be ok. But having second thoughts about cramming an 18k into this area of my living room. Putting it to the left of my window would probably wedge it too far into the corner.
FWIW I did bring up the downstairs situation (approx 856 sq ft but the rear half is vaulted + southern facing). She nudged me toward the 18k for downstairs. Fortunately the wire and breaker requirements are no different. The 27k is a bit larger but that doesn't matter too much, other than it is my most visible unit which is somewhat of a bummer.
Right now I'm waiting for a tech to weigh in (Monday) on how far I can move the wall hole to the left (because of my porch light interference). Some rough measuring suggests the hole will partially overlap the bracket and I'll have to stuff the lines through a partially blocked hole (which is probably OK). I do want the downstairs lines fairly close to the light because the upstairs will run to the right of those (and then I guess the downstairs lines will tee into the upstairs lines, or something.
Regarding my concerns about the 27k being "too big" for a 9k bedroom head, I had some positive results from Copilot on this. FW Webb
[ ] Rectorseal Cover Guard. I will have to build a spec but I will use this because they have more options like the vertical elbows (which I already bought anyway) and tees. I can run the upstairs line set down and then tee into the living room one, and just have one cover/tube down and over to the outside unit. Should be a bit cleaner. More work to spec out what I need buy FW Webb seems to carry the whole line.
Catalog I can use to get parts. Probably a couple kits and then piece parts for the rest though it depends on prices. I think the kit only does 12 feet so I need probably 3. I am assuming the kit is a bit discounted from buying piece parts. https://rectorseal.bynder.com/m/3e3b9c4 ... -Flyer.pdf
Amazon
[ ] Last time I got my 10/2 from Amazon so I could do that again. Won't need much though. Maybe 10 feet but I'll get 25 since that's probably the minimum length. EDIT: Wow, Home Depot is way more expensive for Romex. Weird.
[ ] Diversitech stand. I got the 18" stand for the side but perhaps I will downsize to the 12" stand for the front. Uncertain if I want to do a pad or just try to make a little foundation for each foot with some pavers.
Home Depot
[ ] 25A breaker
[ ] Pipe nipple for wire protrusion through wall
But upon further reflection it would make more sense just to do all Rectorseal Cover Guard so I can use their wider range of parts.
Procurement list:
IWAE
https://iwae.com/shop/18k-btu-21-seer-m ... 22046.html
They seem to have a 10% coupon as well. $2898 listed on the website for the default kit options. 21 SEER2.
18k outside unit
9k + 12k inside unit
Need one 16' and one 25' line set. They should be able to substitute. 16' out of stock....and isn't going to be in stock. Damn.
Disconnect box
6' whip
5th gen with R454B is not in stock in this size but the equivalent would be $3267. 23.9 SEER2. However, this 18k is out of stock and she thought "maybe by June." Double damn. Fun fact: the new gen 5 units are available with a smaller 6k head and the 18k is now a 3 zone. That is a great move for houses with smaller bedrooms.
[ ] That moves us onto a 5th gen 27k outside + 9k inside + 18k inside. 23 SEER2. Price with 25' + 16' $4072 + whip and box = $4200. 10% discount brings that down to $3785 and then back up to $4048 with tax. 25A breaker and 10/2 is sufficient (oddly the same as the 18k). Just need to confirm that I can put the hole in the wall in a different location to clear my porch light. If I can put the hole all the way to the left of the lower bracket ear and A) the lines will still reach far enough out of the hole and B) the resulting bend is ok then I may be ok. But having second thoughts about cramming an 18k into this area of my living room. Putting it to the left of my window would probably wedge it too far into the corner.
FWIW I did bring up the downstairs situation (approx 856 sq ft but the rear half is vaulted + southern facing). She nudged me toward the 18k for downstairs. Fortunately the wire and breaker requirements are no different. The 27k is a bit larger but that doesn't matter too much, other than it is my most visible unit which is somewhat of a bummer.
Right now I'm waiting for a tech to weigh in (Monday) on how far I can move the wall hole to the left (because of my porch light interference). Some rough measuring suggests the hole will partially overlap the bracket and I'll have to stuff the lines through a partially blocked hole (which is probably OK). I do want the downstairs lines fairly close to the light because the upstairs will run to the right of those (and then I guess the downstairs lines will tee into the upstairs lines, or something.
Regarding my concerns about the 27k being "too big" for a 9k bedroom head, I had some positive results from Copilot on this. FW Webb
[ ] Rectorseal Cover Guard. I will have to build a spec but I will use this because they have more options like the vertical elbows (which I already bought anyway) and tees. I can run the upstairs line set down and then tee into the living room one, and just have one cover/tube down and over to the outside unit. Should be a bit cleaner. More work to spec out what I need buy FW Webb seems to carry the whole line.
Catalog I can use to get parts. Probably a couple kits and then piece parts for the rest though it depends on prices. I think the kit only does 12 feet so I need probably 3. I am assuming the kit is a bit discounted from buying piece parts. https://rectorseal.bynder.com/m/3e3b9c4 ... -Flyer.pdf
Amazon
[ ] Last time I got my 10/2 from Amazon so I could do that again. Won't need much though. Maybe 10 feet but I'll get 25 since that's probably the minimum length. EDIT: Wow, Home Depot is way more expensive for Romex. Weird.
[ ] Diversitech stand. I got the 18" stand for the side but perhaps I will downsize to the 12" stand for the front. Uncertain if I want to do a pad or just try to make a little foundation for each foot with some pavers.
Home Depot
[ ] 25A breaker
[ ] Pipe nipple for wire protrusion through wall
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Re: Install ductless mini-split
Ian's fan was intermittently squeaking. Copilot gave me some great direction and I decided the issue was actually the fan support bearing, not the motor. So I bought the recommended lube (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MG3T1Q?re ... asin_title) and took the cover off to get to the fan support bearing.
It turns out the bearing actually has a felt cap and that is what you oil. The oil then wicks to the bearing. Interesting.
The noise was a bit intermittent so time will tell but hopefully that was all it needed.
It turns out the bearing actually has a felt cap and that is what you oil. The oil then wicks to the bearing. Interesting.
The noise was a bit intermittent so time will tell but hopefully that was all it needed.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.